THE NOTHERN NIGERIAN INDIGO DYE PITS

THE NOTHERN NIGERIAN INDIGO DYE PITS

Introduction

The northern Nigeria is blessed with rich and diverse cultural heritage. One of which is the ancient northern Nigerian dye pit situated in kano. This pits have been in existence since over 500 years ago many of which are no longer in no longer avalaible. One of the pits which is still actively in use is the Kofar Mata dye pits.

Anciemt Dye Pits

The Kofar Mata dye pits were established in the year 1498 and had about 270 dye pits . Many people travelled from around the world to buy the indigo dye fabrics and some visit the site for tourism as many are fascinated about the originality of the process and the maintenance of a long lasting cultural heritage.

Due to decrease in demands, more than 100 pits have fallen into disrepair. However, these ancient wells are also at the verge of being extinct as patronage diminishes. Although the indigo cloth continues to attract the rich and royal from the Kano emirate who have a taste for the past.

The Detailed Process Of Creating The Dyed Fabrics

Weaving the Fabric

The fabric are usually created by women who twist and tie the materials (silk and cotton) to produce different patterns. The design can also be made using raffia which is gotten from a raffia palm leaves.

The designers weave the cloths with different beautiful patterns ranging from regular pattern and royal pattern.

The royal patterns are usually in straight lines while the regular ones are made in different circular patterns.

Various patterns can be made on the same piece of cloth to produce a cascading design after the cloth is dyed.

The Famous Kafar Mata

Creating the Dye Solution

First Step

About 1550 litres of water is poured into the pit. The water is measured according to the depth of the pit (which is about 6m). Forty buckets of ashes are then added into the water and left for three days to enable the water penetrate the ashes.
Finally, the baba plant (about 200kg) is measured and added into the solution and left for another three days.

Second Step

Three days later, the leaves and sticks in the baba plant rise to the top of the pit and are filtered out from the solution. At this point, three buckets of potash and another component called 'Katsi' will be included.
This is left for another 3 days – adding up to 9 days in total.

Post-fermentation

After the fermentation period, the charcoal from the ash rises to the top of the solution along with other unwanted residue. This are then filtered out.
The solution is then stirred with the stirring machine for a period of one week.

Life span

This solution usually has a one year life span during which they have to be mixed at least once. During this period, the solution can become inactive due to lack of use and, as a result, change colour to a darker solution.

Adding Makhouba
When the solution becomes inactive, a brown powdery-like substance called Makhouba is applied in order to reactivate it.

The makhouba is mixed in with the inactive solution so that it can take effect more easily.

Process of dying fabric

Time to Dye

The actual dyeing takes place when the fabric is continuously dipped in the solution for a period of time, depending on how deep the dyer intends the colour to be.

1. Light blue – One hour

2. Navy Blue- Two hours

3. Dark Blue- Three Hours

4. Blue black- Six hours

There are over 100 dye pits at Kofar Mata and it is usual to find many dyers working on different cloths all at once.

Drying and Beating

After the dyer is satisfied with the colour he intends to achieve, he spreads the cloth out to dry and then undergo Bugu - beating the dyed fabric with big log of wood.
Bugu is a traditional form of pressing a cloth. It is preferred because it makes the cloth shine while retaining its quality.